Printable View
Is there a cheaper alternative to a quality DSP (the dm-810 is $750 :/) to adjust time alignment? (I cannot change head unit)
I know a DSP does MANY things but I have the audio control LC6-1200 which takes care of making sure the correct frequencies are going to the correct speakers. So wouldn't that combine with the ability to adjust the alignment take care of the main advantages a DSP provides?
MiniDSP has the C-DSP 8x12 unit for around $650 if you add the optional OLED remote display.
For about the same price, Crutchfield has an open box DM-810 right now - AudioControl DM-810 - Open Box
Below that, the JL TWK D8/88 is an excellent processor. Very user friendly.
Thank you very much for taking the time to look into that for me!
$650 is still too much for me. Is there such a thing as a DSP that doesn't have a pricetag that big that will allow for a solid install?
I cant justify spending that kind of money on something I'm not even sure how much of a difference it will make.
When I type in best DSP to a search engine the Rockford DSR1 is mentioned in most articles. Given I can get one for $250 on Amazon right now, I'm definitely willing to pull the trigger on that. (Normally $350)
$400 is a large delta in my mind, but I'd rather put no DSP in my car than a POS.
I've used the DSR1 before. It was really cool when it worked. A major disappointment when it didn't. And I'm not sure if it was the DSP, or my phone that caused the issues. Seemed to lose all the tuning just randomly when I would connect my phone to it. And I never could get the subwoofer levels to work right. Had an older Samsung S7 at the time though. Upgraded to an iPhone XS Max, but traded the DSP before I could try it out. Was really nice having the Bluetooth tuning though.
I have a OnePlus 8T, which is a pretty awesome cell in my opinion. It definitely blows the pants off the S7
Every year I check for a better cell and every year I cannot find anything close to worth upgrading to. Even a free OnePlus 10 isn't worth the hassle of having to set-up.
I'm not a gamer or photographer and am a "if it isn't broke don't fix it" kind of guy when it comes to most electronics.
But I do understand what you mean about not knowing where the problem is coming from. I think I found someone with the professional grade equipment to tune with, so that probably negates the cell issue all together.
I'm not sure what makes a good, average, bad, and useless DSP. But I've heard that unit mentioned as good in some of my research, but not knowing much, the really low price makes me suspicious.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigAl205
A DSP is one of those "you get what you pay for" type of things
That's what I'm trying to articulate, I'll give an example.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigAl205
When someone asks me if they should get a Camaro SS, or ZL1 (or any cars), I can tell them they get what they pay for.
But much like my mom doesn't know what a supercharger is, a elsd, mag ride, or what goes into defining if one is better (she wouldn't even use most of them) or if she will even be able to tell if is there, I don't know what goes into defining what makes one DSP better than the other or if a parameter even matters to me.
It probably isn't the best parallel, but it's all I can come up with.
The only things I know to compare are how many channels you can manipulate and how easy they are to manipulate. It seems like all DSPs have gotten firmware updates that make them near the same user friendly when tuning.
Does that mean all I need to look at is which one allows for finer tunning?
How many channels of processing does your current setup require?
Are you looking to add more later?
Not entirely sure what you mean by that, but 5?Quote:
Originally Posted by chithead
One for my front components that have crossovers, one for the speaker in my dash, one for my speakers in my passenger compartment, one for the the speakers in my rear deck, and one for the subs?
I have the LC6-1200 and it still has empty outs, and a sub amp.
I definitely don't plan on adding more speakers.
How many channels total do you need?
I have dayton dsp in my wifes suv. It is fine for basic peq and time. It doesn't have all pass filters which sucks for more advanced things and doesn't have any upmixers or proper differential rear fill ability.
But for PEQ/Time it is the same as all the rest.
A used mini dsp cdsp 6x8 or a used helix dsp.2/3 would work too. Can find those for the sub $500 range.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdunk54nl
Still not sure what you mean by how many channels do I need.
Do I need 1 channel for each pair of speakers?
Or 1 channel for each speaker?
1 channel for a component speaker
Or Two?
1 channel for each sub? Or one for the pair in the same box?
Between 5-11 depending on the answers to those questions.
Set up
Kicker KSS690 6x9-components front doors
KICKER 47KSC6504 6.5 Inch sail panels
REF-9632IX 6x9- rear deck
Rockford fosgate 500x1d (2 10s)
Rockford Fosgate Prime R2-2X10
4 non component speakers
2 component speakers
2 subs
1 center channel speaker
My LC6-1200 does channel summing and lets me set high and low pass filters for each pair of speakers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ender2664
Ideally you need one channel for every single speaker/driver. This includes amp channels. But if you don't have an amp channel for every individual driver, at least a dsp channel for every amp channel you have.
This is what it looks like going into the amps
https://youtu.be/YmHnhANcrAc
I used to use the Dayton 408 and “upgraded” to the JL TWK88. The Dayton is a VERY capable DSP if you’re looking for basic functions, and it’s a bargain for the ~$200 price tag (assuming you add some options). The Bluetooth module alone was worth it for me to be able to use my phone to make quick adjustments rather than hooking up a laptop. I’ve read of multiple people experiencing noise even though mine was noise & trouble free.
I used upgraded in quotes because for all the features the Dayton has, the JL is almost exactly the same as far as ability & functionality. The biggest difference for me was that the JL has a control knob that does preset selection, master volume AND sub volume whereas the Dayton remote only did presets & master volume. Personally, I wanted a sub volume control so the Dayton came out. If you do some shopping you can find some decent gear for the right price. I got my TWK for <$400 from Crutchfield as an open box deal.
I’ll also say that while anyone will benefit from a DSP’s EQ functions (because you’ll have multiple EQ bands per channel), the real benefit comes from removing the passive crossovers and using the DSP to control the crossovers, EQ & time alignment for EACH SPEAKER. As an example, I have a 3-way set for my front stage. If I was using passive crossovers I’d have a 10-band EQ for the L and a 10-band for the R. Using the DSP, I now have 10 bands for each speaker so, basically, I have 60 bands of EQ available for just my front speakers. I can also delay each speaker so the sound from each speaker reaches my ears at exactly the same time. With passive crossovers you can’t do that and the sound gets compromised. Can it still sound good? Maybe. Will it sound AS good? Nope. No way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTodd
Thank you