-
The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
Hello everyone.
The main reason for this build thread is to chronicle the entire process for the frame replacement on my 1993 Dakota V6 5-speed. The rear half of the frame is completely rotted. I picked up a very nice and clean frame to replace it. It did need welding work because the guy I bought it from cut two crossmembers.
In addition, I have a 318 V8 sitting on an engine stand right now. I haven't touched it and I have no idea what it needs. Supposedly it was running when it was pulled out. :suspicious: If the stars align, the V8 will be replacing the V6. However, the truck itself will take priority over the V8 with respect to time and money, so there is a fair chance that the V6 will be put back in.
As far as audio goes, I'm not sure what I'm going to do. At least, I hope to put down some sound deadening and run wires while I have the cab stripped, but the rest of the system may have to wait.
Please feel free to ask any questions you have. I will be taking a lot of pictures and taking notes, all of which I'm very willing to share. I will not be posting all of the pictures, but you may view all of the pictures I take here:
Dodge Dakota Pictures
Oh, by the way; I named my truck "The Victim" for two reasons. First, it has been through a lot and is ready to break in half. Second, anything I touch should be considered a victim. :)
I hope you enjoy the log.
Initial Exterior
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...pse6f9ba45.jpg
Does something look a little wrong here?
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps1068eac2.jpg
Today, 1/26/14, I got the bed off and stripped out part of the cab interior.
It was a little chilly out.
http://dodgeforum.com/forum/attachme...ine=1390786220
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps7c5b555f.jpg
The worst rot is behind the front leaf spring hanger. I am convinced that if the hanger rivets weren't there, the frame would break in half.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps51a10ac9.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...pse36aee09.jpg
More unrelated fun. Today I got into my first accident. Guy made a right on red and smashed my Subaru's door in. Bah, I don't give a ****. He was super apologetic, probably about 70 years old, driving a POS Hyundai and I believe he was a veteran. He didn't need any extra stress so I let it go. :pepper:
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...psc5b677a3.jpg
Stay tuned...I will post pictures of the new frame soon.
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
Holy crap! This is why I don't buy used vehicles from up north. Salt is a bish!
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
Quote:
Originally Posted by
shamethellama
More unrelated fun. Today I got into my first accident. Guy made a right on red and smashed my Subaru's door in. Bah, I don't give a ****. He was super apologetic, probably about 70 years old, driving a POS Hyundai and I believe he was a veteran. He didn't need any extra stress so I let it go.[/B] :pepper:
:shakehands:
Thanks, for not being just another dumb mongoloid from our generation. Very kind of you, man.
re: road salt and rust - ha! All too familiar. Heartbreaking, when you get to peeling the rusty cornflakes off of what used to be your frame. I don't suppose you're gonna have a new frame dipped, are you?
Interested to see how this one goes :)
-
1 Attachment(s)
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
The guy immediately got his insurance out too. He was totally compliant. I figure that I'd rather pay for a new used door than make his day any worse. Actually I wish I had stayed longer to talk with him...if he was actually a veteran, I would have liked to thank him. Meh, maybe I'll see him around.
The frame isn't going to be dipped. I'm going to strip all the surface rust off of it and paint it using SPI Epoxy Primer. It looks like this approximately.
Attachment 1870
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Slammer
Holy crap! This is why I don't buy used vehicles from up north. Salt is a bish!
That also show how bad Chrysler was a rust proofing back in the 90's.
Sucks that the soobie got a bit smashed though a solid door from the pick and pull should be pretty cheap.
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
Quote:
Originally Posted by
shamethellama
I figure that I'd rather pay for a new used door than make his day any worse.
That, right there, is remarkable. It shouldn't be, but realistically, it is. Still, this makes me happy. :)
And honey, I'm afraid that's a wee bit more than surface rust, what you got going on there...
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Hi-FiDelity
That also show how bad Chrysler was a rust proofing back in the 90's.
Sucks that the soobie got a bit smashed though a solid door from the pick and pull should be pretty cheap.
But it says this on on the seat trim! Chrysler wouldn't lie!
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps7f86771c.jpg
Yeah, I'll find a cheap door. Hopefully the same color haha.
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
:facepalm: Even their QC placard is falling off.
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
Quote:
Originally Posted by
millerlyte
And honey, I'm afraid that's a wee bit more than surface rust, what you got going on there...
Oh no, that frame is TRASHED. Done, FUBAR, fucked. At least from the cab back. If you dipped it, it would just about disappear.
I have a new frame to put on it. :) That's the one I was talking about that will be painted.
That reminds me, my friend had a good nickname for my Subaru, which I can't believe I've never thought of. Subaru, FUBARU. :)
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
Holeeeeey shit........you weren't driving that Dodge like that, were you? And props on letting the old dude slide.....
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
Admittedly, I did drive it. Not like daily drive it, but I drove it on occasion. After I saw how bad the rust was, I pretty much stopped driving it. But I took it out on the backroads a few times. Still not a good idea.
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
Props to you rrama for how you handled the accident with the veteran.
The world could use a few more thousands of people like you.
-
1 Attachment(s)
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
Don't worry everyone, I'm not bailing on this project yet! I still plan to have the cab off this weekend. I decided it would be best to remove the front clip before removing the cab because I don't want to lift the cab any higher than necessary.
I have extremely limited time to work on it with school and work, and this doesn't help much:
Attachment 1986
We've got a few inches on the ground already. No moar snow tanks.
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
I know this needs updates. But the weather is absolutely atrocious. Too bad, because I have a 5 day weekend (Thursday-Monday) and I want to use it. Tomorrow, if the roads are good enough, I plan on heading to Jo-Ann's and getting some headliner vinyl and some fleece and whatever else I can think of that I might need. I have to work on something.
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
You can do it! Remember, feeling cold is only temporary (partly because after a time you stop feeling anything, but), your progress isn't! Brave the weather, I can do it, you can do it ;) It's always worth it in the end.
I expect updates during your break Tim. Do not disappoint!
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
It's not the cold, I don't mind the cold (until my hands are so froze I can't hold anything). But it's been snowing today, then it started raining. :( There's only so much I can do. I need to be able to move the truck one more time (under a tree to pull the cab), so I can't disconnect anything mechanical/electrical yet and there's no way I could lift the cab in these conditions. FTS! But thanks for the encouragement Ally!
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
Okay, so the town roads were NOT good, but I went out anyways. On the highway I passed two accidents, which I thought was odd because the highway seemed fine. But I ended up doing what I said I was going to do today. I went to Jo-Ann's picked up some headliner material and upholstery glue, and went to town on the headliner. Total of about $50 (including a couple yards of fleece I bought...for the road ahead) This was my first time doing a headliner, and I couldn't have asked for an easier one to learn on.
This is the old one:
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...psf4ff40e5.jpg
After pulling the fabric off, I broke out a stiff plastic bristle brush (which worked AWESOME) and removed as much of the foam residue as possible.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps25ffa9dc.jpg
Then I used a razor blade at a right angle to scrape even more crap off.
Before.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps395d812d.jpg
Good to go.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps215ab753.jpg
There were a few repairs I had to make. The rear of the headliner right behind the dome light was ripped, so I glued that. I made repairs using cardboard and duct tape to 3 corners of the liner. Also, the spot for the sun visor mount is supposed to have an inset piece which is what allows the visor mount to hold the liner up. Those pieces fell out, so I made new ones...out of cardboard and wood glue.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...psccaa07c7.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...psd2e236f2.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...pse9191021.jpg
All repairs completed, ready for fabric.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps55a4756e.jpg
Lay the fabric out nice and centered, then fold half of it back so that it completely covers the other half (this will prevent glue from getting on the front of the fabric)
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps26312782.jpg
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
Continued.
This seemed to work well. I sprayed it liberally on both the fabric and the liner and let them dry for a few minutes.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps0d7cfe0c.jpg
Careful, once the liner is folded down, you pretty much can't move it. It's pretty easy to work wrinkles out, but you will not be able to reposition the liner. I did a lot of rubbing to make sure the foam was well adhered.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps463279be.jpg
Now fold the free half over the adhered half and repeat the procedure. This is what the glue looks like.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps094b69f8.jpg
Both halves done.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps85bcd1f9.jpg
Let it dry for a bit, then flip the liner over and cut holes where there needs to be holes. A tip for small holes (e.g. ones for the clothes hanger) is to not try to cut the whole hole out because it's a pain in the butt...just cut a cross into it so that the screw will go through. There is much less chance for a fuck up if you do it this way.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps3aecf5aa.jpg
Oh yeah, take note of where the old headliner fabric was folded over the liner. I forgot to, but it was pretty obvious that mine was folded along the front and the back from the leftover adhesive, and the sides were cut flush. So, that's exactly what I did for the new one.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps122ed44e.jpg
After the sides were cut flush, I cut the front and back so that the remaining fabric would fold over. I broke out the glue again and folded the fabric over the liner.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps8b21f7ca.jpg
Done. Color is lighter than the OEM, but I couldn't give a fuck less.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...psf9eb3699.jpg
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps4debff82.jpg
And that's that. Didn't get much else done today. This took me a while.
Stay tuned...or don't, I don't care. :)
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
That's some awesome work there Tim. Keep on truckin' and this build will be done before you know it.
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
VERY nice! You should be quite proud bro, that looks great!
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
Thanks guys! This forum is so pleasant and supportive. :)
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
Quote:
Originally Posted by
TIMMAY!!!
Thanks guys! This forum is so pleasant and supportive. :)
Shut up dummy! Moar work! :p:D
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
Where are you getting the replacement frame from? I'm really digging this build, by the way. I've bought two vehicles that were from the North. Had a 2000 Jeep Cherokee and a 2002 GMC Sierra that were both from Michigan. Loved them both (especially the Jeep) but the rust was a bitch. Did a lift on the Jeep and all four rear shock bolts broke off and I had to drill and tap. This is definitely gonna be a great build, be sure to post more pics than you think are necessary. We like lots of pics!
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Slammer
Where are you getting the replacement frame from? I'm really digging this build, by the way. I've bought two vehicles that were from the North. Had a 2000 Jeep Cherokee and a 2002 GMC Sierra that were both from Michigan. Loved them both (especially the Jeep) but the rust was a bitch. Did a lift on the Jeep and all four rear shock bolts broke off and I had to drill and tap. This is definitely gonna be a great build, be sure to post more pics than you think are necessary. We like lots of pics!
I got the frame from New Jersey. It's in VERY good condition. I have neglected to post pictures of it, but I will soon! Rust is a total bitch, but the replacement frame has, for all intents and purposes, no rust. It will be completely coated in SPI (Southern Polyurethane) epoxy primer. All the brake lines and fuel lines will be replaced, all the front suspension and steering components will be inspected and replaced as necessary, and all bushings, mounts, or anything that needs doing will be done. It's not gonna be a show truck, but if things go my way, it will be a SOLID truck and will look halfway decent. Thankfully, the truck is fairly mechanically sound as it is. It needs a few things, but the engine is in decent shape and the transmission is fine. In the future I hope to replace the fairly weak AX-15 tranny with an NV4500 (tranny that comes behind the V8s) and replace the rear axle with a 9.25" axle and a limited slip...but these are [very expensive] luxuries and will be done as money permits. SO many things to think about. Goal for now is to do all the essentials...and of course, an audio system is one of those essentials...;) Thanks for your interest. :)
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
The truck itself looks pretty solid. Is it 4 wheel drive? Looks like it is based on the height, but I don't see any badges to indicate it is. I would say lift it while doing the frame work, if so. Sucks those use torsion keys on the front like my Sierra did. Scary shit when you release the tension on those things! Looks like you have it pretty well planned out. Go ahead and assume brake and fuel lines will be a bitch, because they will. As for steering and suspension components go, they can add up quickly. You may want to look into a complete replacement package online, which could be less expensive than paying retail for a few parts here and there. If you are gonna do individual parts, be sure to check out rockauto.com. I've bought from them many times in the past. Way cheaper than retail, trust me.
http://www.rockauto.com/
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
You are right sir. It is 4-wheel drive; it's got a 4x4 emblem on the upper tailgate, and if you look very closely at the first picture in the thread, you can just barely see where it says 4x4 on the protective rubber strip next to 'Dakota'. It's supposed to have one on the driver's side as well, but it fell off! Minus 20 hp right there. :( I gotta say though, the 4x4 in this is pretty damn good. However, I'm really hoping I can budget in a new rear axle to really get some bitchin' traction. I have a puny 7.5" axle in the rear for which there is no LSD/Locker available, and I'd like to replace it with a 9.25" axle from a later model Dakota/Durango and add a Powertrax Lock-Right automatic locking rear differential. That'll be at least $500-$600 all told.
I plan to lift it max of 3" suspension lift, but more like 2" probably, with torsion bars maxed out. A solid axle swap is not for me at this time.
For the brake lines and probably the fuel lines, I'm going to use SUR&R EZ-Bend Nickel-Copper lines. They are awesome. I replaced all the lines on my dad's '02 Silverado (all of them were rusted through at the ABS module) with those lines, and they are wonderful to work with. I'd recommend them to anyone. It's going to be a piece of cake to do the lines when I have the "luxury" of the cab and bed off.
Yea, I use Rockauto too! They've always got some sort of ridiculous prices on "Wholesaler Closeouts" that make me so happy. I plan to come up with a giant order so I can do like $1000 worth all at once, hopefully covering a nice chunk of things that it needs. I'm gonna dive into this money pit head first!
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
I did the torsion bars on my Sierra and was happy with the height improvement but hated how the front end was "super sprung" whenever I went over a bump. Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't reverse it if I were given the opportunity, just learned to take it slow over speed bumps. The difference in the torsion makes the front end PUSH down over the slightest bump. As for the rear diff swap, you may want to keep a drive shaft issue in mind. I went from an 8" to a 9" Ford rear end many years ago and found out that the distance was different (longer yoke on the 9") and have to have my drive shaft cut and balanced. Hopefully you won't, but a heads up regardless.
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
The lack of updates is due to my being busy. Sorry! The project has been progressing slowly and I have plenty of updates, which I'm going to post one at a time. First a quick progress update:
I am currently in the process of painting the frame. I have removed everything from the new frame that isn't welded in, including the leaf spring hangers and rear cross members, which are riveted in. I ground down a total of 28 rivets. This is not a quick process; therefore, I am cleaning and painting the frame in "one-day" sections. This is so I can avoid surface rust forming on fresh sections and apply paint as soon as possible after stripping the frame to bare metal. More detailed updates will be posted shortly. But we'll start with this:
Rust Removal using Electrolysis
A member on NASIOC posted a thread about using electrolysis to remove rust from rusty parts, and I decided I had to give it a try.
First of all, I'm not a chemist. As I understand it, rust is Fe2O3 (Iron Oxide). Electrolysis uses electric current to promote the removal of negatively charged oxygen ions from the rusted part (cathode) towards the anode, which is a positively charged piece of metal, through an electrolytic (current conducting) medium. Don't know what I'm talking about? Neither do I, but the great thing is that you don't have to! This is a very inexpensive and easy to setup process. This is my setup:
-Rusty part: This will be your cathode.
-Sacrificial steel: Get PLAIN steel. Not galvanized, stainless, or coated. Just plain rebar or flat steel. 4 ft. of 1 1/2" wide flat steel did it for me.
-Clean 5 gallon bucket
-Battery charger: mine is a trickle charger (12V/1.5A). I had doubts about it being powerful enough, but it works just fine. A slightly more powerful battery charger would likely yield quicker results.
-Arm & Hammer washing soda (sodium carbonate): This is your electrolyte. I have heard that baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) will work, but not as well.
-Small piece of wood to lay across bucket
-Wires
-Hardware as necessary
The pieces of sacrificial steel are bolted to the bucket. This process works on "line of sight". That is, if the rust can't "see" an anode, it will not be de-rusted as well as it would be if it could.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps76d08c29.jpg
I used an old jumper cable to connect the four pieces of sacrificial steel.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...pse80d3999.jpg
Suspend the part to be de-rusted in the bucket, so that it does not touch any of the anodes. Releasable zipties work great for this purpose. Fill the bucket with water and add 1 tablespoon of A&H washing soda PER GALLON of water.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...pse2b65803.jpg
Then, you will connect the NEGATIVE lead of the battery charger to the part to be de-rusted. It may be a good idea to connect the lead instead to a length of wire (see above picture), which is then connected to the part, so that the lead is not submerged in the solution. This will ensure that the battery charger clips aren't damaged. The POSITIVE lead will be connected to the anodes. Turn the battery charger on, and after a while, you will see rusty foam forming at the surface.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...psd8a0e2f9.jpg
After three-ish hours.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...pse8dbc485.jpg
The part comes out looking like this.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...psbc91c37b.jpg
Take a wire wheel to it for a few minutes, and see the difference.
Clean.
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...psa015fe59.jpg
You may ask...well, can't you do the same thing with just a wire wheel/flappy disc? NOPE. Those are great tools, but it is not possible to remove rust with them without removing some of the surrounding metal. Not to mention the fact that some crevices are impossible to get to with these types of tools. See the difference on this cross member. The ends were treated with electrolysis, then hit with a wire cup brush on an angle grinder. The middle was only de-rusted with the grinder.
...woops, I don't have this image right now...I'll have to get it off my camera... coming soon!
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
That's pretty cool, Tim. Now you just need a bucket big enough to put the whole frame in!
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
Friends and I were joking about putting it in a swimming pool. Then we thought...why not have electrolysis parties?! Dump a whole bunch of rusty crap into a big concrete pool, then drink beer and let it do its thing! Probably would need a slightly bigger charger...
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
I'll bring the bigger charger......
That's pretty damn cool.
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
Fuckin' impressive... Love it :thumbsup:
Kelvin
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
Those plastic kiddie pools work good for larger parts or a wood frame and a roll of that heavy black plastic for the really big stuff. PH plus for swimming pools is the same as the washing soda and generally easier to find and make sure you use one of the older style battery chargers, the newer smart chargers won't charge unless they see voltage from a battery.
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
Any chance of harming the charger?
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
current is really low I'd assume.
-
Re: The Victim Build Thread -- Featuring frame replacement
A lot of people use those old 10a chargers and usually report about 3-4a of current draw.