Wish upon a 2010 Tacoma TRD Off Road

If anyone has a good reason to own a 2010 Tacoma, I'd like to hear it. To my current opinion it didn't change between 05-10 in body style so I would like a technical reason to know why my Truck is better; it did in 2012.

This Truck can and will hydroplane over mud holes. I warn you. What you might read and view might make you question where car audio ends and an honest hobby begins. A backstory on my fateful Kelly. (Kelly was an 1985 4Runner I drove in High School and I garaged her eventually. One problem Kelly has is she doesn't have airbags. Not a single one. You know how cool an old car is? It's awesome if you want to have your male peers hate you for having something they can't. A unique looking vehicle, that is admittedly... still not going to impress chicks. That was my experience they did find it interesting however only after I had Kelly painted. And for high school she was a fine ride, a dangerous ride however it's best we don't dwell on anything other than some chick I knew once named her and I didn't tell anyone but caraudiojunkies.

I won't describe the system Kelly had however it was embarrassing. The only thing remaining in the latest install is a Hifonics Brutus BRZ1700.1D and I wish I knew of .25 ohm load amps when I bought my RE audio SRX dual 10" 300W rms subs, but I didn't and I installed a 4OHM amplifier with a very basic Alpine single din and JL audio speakers that were the trxc400-CXi. It sounded awesome. Little did I know the difference between SQ and SPL back then. However I guess those subs were sq. And... I took those subwoofers, the pair of RE audio SRX 10" and put them in generic subwoofer box behind my rear seats. I did have to modify the box a little to fit the subwoofers. It worked and I eventually blew a voice coil. Due to "porting them" or whatever. Those were some tough years. I had no subwoofer system, just an amplifier in a box not to be forgotten. And those years are days away from being over. I have a Sundown SD3 D2. I wonder if that hifonics brz1700.1d can keep up. Needing 500w rms I'll be at 600w rms so I'll just play some pink noise... and set my gains. (Again if anybody knows of amplifiers that are built to handle low ohm loads or just information in general... let me know. But I'll give kelly's amplifier a good regards and let her handle my low end for now.
I purchased 2 different pairs of morel maximo 6's. Both 6.5" (as a 6x9 just isn't "sq" and I didn't want to overpower rear fill. I could've gone with the 6x9 option however I didn't. I could've even saved $10 and bought them from crutchfield. Again, I did not. I did purchase co-axial's for the rear and components for the front. (Where should I mount my crossovers?)

Powering these two sets of speakers is an amplifier I bought while, I guess wanting an amplifier and I bought a Hifonics Brutus BRX1616.4, 1600W rms. (I also purchased a hifonics line driver/equalizer/2 in 6 channels out, and I got lucky there and managed to get an equalizer designed for a 2-way. It has a knob for subs, midbass, midrange, tweeters. and a half dozen crossover choices. If your an old school guy, You could set the eq's to flat and use a dsp and you'll have knobs for those or purchase a different Hifonics HFEQ for a 3-way.) It's just knobs on hand in a very small chassis. And I think I'll mount it somewhere it does get noticed poking out of a single din dash kit, flush of course. It really is cool just having those knobs on deck I guess. (Originally I just wanted a line out put converter and to go back to my stock radio... I was of the opinion cd's were cool. I no longer am and still hadn't googled car audio forum. (The maximo 6 purchase was due to diymobile audio's thread on best component system. I like that they don't have a bright tweeter.)

I was also sold on the Sundown subwoofer due to it reportedly being the absolute best subwoofer that can go behind the rear seats of a double cab Tacoma. Thank you tacomaworld. Sundown won the spl competition for 2017 MECA I believe. And I absolutely have not heard a single watt through the subwoofer yet, I've had it for awhile and I have to thank Marv for helping me build a box over the phone. Marv you really are awesome. I would be lost without your help. Kudos. I've built a box before for Kelly, and I still have Kelly and that box. The new box is really coming along very well. All I need is a router jig and then I'll be ready to seat the faceplate. I took off some inside air space to accommodate for the fact I'm adding a bit with a terminal cup which I plan on silicon sealing with the rest of the box, and I think I'll prime the whole deal with automobile grade paint and give it a flat black on the inside/outside just so it won't absorb moisture. I'm unsure If I'll still use carpet on the box and it'd be nice to have an oem match of the grey used in the Truck, which I don't have. However, a black sand pearl finish might be the ticket... just like the outside of the Truck.

My two amplifiers won't be putting out their full loads so I think I'll be very well off as far as not needing an extra battery or an upgraded alternator. Alas, I decided to purchase a 50 farad rockville audio RCX50D. So... it was comparable in price to other capacitors. Why not? +42 farads comparable.:goinghome:

I also have a "bass equalizer" "bass restorer" etc... Hifonics bxipro2.0 and I'll see how well it plays. And I guess the first thing I'm going to do is tune it to 32hz with pink noise which is what the subwoofer wants for it's port tuning if it was to be ported. Although the sub was designed for sealed enclosures. And I don't think I'll change that "center knob" until someone enlightens me and bestows me with knowledge of spl most bound. The "sweep" I was going to I guess play down to 20hz or whatever it is I hear with pink noise... I do hope I can hear 20hz and it's not just sound pressure. Who knows?
I'm eq'uing this also with an Alpine cde-133bt that I've messed up. The CD tray doesn't work anymore due to me being me and well it still has a penny inside of it... not sure how to get that out. Or if the CD tray is fixable. The most annoying thing is it has a failed Bluetooth update due to it just being an option to 'begin update' and I thought it would do that through my iPhone. Anyway, apparently there's a file to fix it and for the European sold version you can insert a disc with a file and it'll fix. I tried to properly do the bluetooth update, through bluetooth, with an old version of windows and It didn't take the bait. If you know a fix can you please send me details or possibly know a clue to get me on the right track. If anything when I replace this head unit it will be nice to have it as a back up.
My next head unit must have:
apple carplay
eq options, decent eq options.
24bit minimum.
sat nav option, separate from the apple carplay app
Sirius satellite radio option
HD radio an absolute must.
Preferably rear inputs for hdmi, aux, usb,
6 rca channels for amplifiers.
Optical out.
color changing keys.
I like the buttons on the left and not the bottom.
My Tacoma dash would probably fit an oversized double din however I haven't measured.
No need for external switching in the head unit as I can do that with my bank of oem replacement switches. That I plan on putting in the dash somewhere. And it might be under the steering wheel so people don't notice them if they're in the Truck and turn them on by accident.

I plan on finding a spot for my 4 level eq knobs. Probably next to the HFEQ.

This is all going to look gorgeous afterwards and am just waiting to buy a second dash possibly from somebody parting out a Tacoma... so I have two. One to arrange all this, and one to drive with during all that and I also like the ability to put the truck back to stock if need be. None of the truck is modified except for some clv I bought on the cheap, and am unsure of by the way. And putting it back to stock I could sell the dash I make... and move on to a Tundra.

A note on Toyota and their Tacoma. And my old 4Runner:
One thing I find bizarre, and out right strange is that I know you Toyota. I know you want to sell the Tundra over the Tacoma. So thank you for no options for leather seats... one choice of interior color... a JBL option sound system... I did however acquire the "turd" model. Or 'Toyota racing development' with the towing package which apparently is just almost always sold together. I could rant about my Truck. I could, the only problem is I never do. I didn't want a full size truck. (Full size trucks don't fit well when off-roading however I gotta hand it to them they do pull boats, the only problem with this however is that you have to look else where if you want to pull say a full size horse trailer. So in my opinion Tundra owners... you've proved it. You bought a Tundra over the Tacoma (Enjoy your luxury options from the factory). Of course it had to be a Toyota because Kelly managed to make it since 1985 my next Toyota is going to get there in age. I'm not sure what could make her obsolete as of right now, but I guess it'd be floating cars. And, laugh, sure but why would we keep driving them with wheels when the new ones float... Safety ratings have become obsessive, and it's a good thing. I'm very glad I drive a pretty large Truck with a bunch of airbags, Kelly's only downfall really. I still have Kelly by the way. And no... no I will not let her drive past 35mph again as she lives a good life being the 'Toyota edition truck with a removable rear top. (Just like a 4X4 bare bones jeep.)"

I like parking a midsize truck. I really do... not sure how people handle that extra width lol. Some parking spots sure like walmart, no problem. Perhaps something else like a badly laid out parking lot... idk man. I am very happy with my mid size truck and I guess it was the European in me that made me want to have one over the Tundra.

Reserved.

Reserved for future updates.

Pics or it didn't happen

I'm needing a circle jig for the router, stuck for a few days. (Feel free to delete those multi-posts I don't think it's how a build log really works.)

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Originally Posted by punkrocker

I'm needing a circle jig for the router, stuck for a few days. (Feel free to delete those multi-posts I don't think it's how a build log really works.)

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLpEuqNn07Q

I think I'll rig something right up for one use out of left over mdf.

I think this is the most posts this forum has seen in a twenty four hour period in a long time. My mind is blown with all this fresh content :D

Yeah, I want to see pics too.

Is there anyway to create a surface, starting with mdf that will leave me the ability to paint the box/amp rack and have it match the color of the Truck? With a true deep surface without looking like it's a spray painted box.

I was thinking I would fiberglass resin the whole thing and then lay black fiberglass over it. And then spray paint it my oem color. Any faults with this? Better Ideas?

Pics will come I promise... one thing that I'm doing that all of you might not really like and it's so my voltage to the amplifiers isn't too high is I'm using cca through out the install except for speaker wire. Would I have more sq sound if I went with ofc? It's just my gains are all ready going to be so low... I might just buy the knukonceptz kandy irregardless however it wouldn't be that expensive and would look so sick in the install.

Any suggestions for the best place to buy ferrules? I have some and overpaid for them off ebay/amazon and eh it'd be nice to know where to actually buy them. All I need left is a single 2awg ferrule, although it'd be nice to have a few to spare.

Do you guys think there would be a problem running the bxipro2.0 and the hifonics hfeq off the radio power? The manual does suggest it and I wouldn't have to worry about so many rca's coiled up in the back. Anyway's, what's the best way to power these two? Would using a small distribution block be best or could I just t-tap? I believe the hfeq for example only draws 0.1amps.

I soldered the radio in, and I'm thinking of re-doing that with crimp connections as it's more reliable and leads to less resistance.

don't worry about cca wire
use a terminal block for power
use rcas for signal, much cleaner

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Originally Posted by punkrocker

I soldered the radio in, and I'm thinking of re-doing that with crimp connections as it's more reliable and leads to less resistance.

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:wtf:

solder is preferred method

:wtf:

solder is preferred method[/QUOTE]

THIS

:mad:Diymobile led me to believe crimping was better. I don't think it is either, I did for maybe a few days and didn't crimp anything so no harm lol.
When I solder I push the two wires into each other at their ends, twist all of it tight and solder the entire thing in a light coating all over. However, according to a diymobile thread started by some guy who's a pro at everything involving soldering/crimping... crimping leads to less resistance for the wire. Anyway let's not let this thread derail into a crimping vs soldering debate. I believe both are adequate ways to do it in all honesty.

Does anyone have reccomendations for removing scratches from bare aluminium? I have a few scratches on my amplifiers.

I plan on making a stellar beautiful amplifier rack/box so it looks so awesome when I put the final coat of oem black paint over it. Would I do this with chopped fiberglass? I think I should at least start with a few layers of chopped fiberglass. And then possibly move onto something that would give a perfectly flat surface, or will chopped fiberglass give me a perfectly flat surface? I was thinking of purchasing this all from https://www.fibreglast.com/

I do need help with sound deadening. I have clv throughout the truck, and it was GT mat 50mil. Should I get rid of this and use a different clv? What should be the rest of my sound barriers? Has anyone found success making their own fast rings to go around speakers?

Also one update on the box. I made an absolute squeeze of an insert for the Sundown SD3 D2 to sit in, literally was tightening the mdf as it went in and it was all perfect making my own circle jig out of a piece of mdf. Hopefully next time I work on it tomorrow I remember to take photos.

I plan on making a stellar beautiful amplifier rack/box so it looks so awesome when I put the final coat of oem black paint over it. Would I do this with chopped fiberglass? I think I should at least start with a few layers of chopped fiberglass. And then possibly move onto something that would give a perfectly flat surface, or will chopped fiberglass give me a perfectly flat surface?
Hopefully next time I work on it tomorrow I remember to take photos.

A fiberglass/filler milkshake as final/top layer .

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Originally Posted by punkrocker

I do need help with sound deadening. I have clv throughout the truck, and it was GT mat 50mil. Should I get rid of this and use a different clv? What should be the rest of my sound barriers? Has anyone found success making their own fast rings to go around speakers?

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It's CLD (Constrained layer dampener) not clv. Keep the GT mat... no good reason to remove it and put something else down. Read up on this website to understand dampeners, barriers, acoustical treatments and the application for each: www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

IMO,

Fast rings are overpriced and using the center section of the ring behind your speaker is a bad idea as it can hold moisture. You can do the same thing with cheap weather stripping or window air conditioner foam found at HD or Lowes. I made my own that way for less than $5.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-3-5-ft-...rstrip/1096097

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Originally Posted by Truthunter

It's CLD (Constrained layer dampener) not clv. Keep the GT mat... no good reason to remove it and put something else down. Read up on this website to understand dampeners, barriers, acoustical treatments and the application for each: www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

IMO,

Fast rings are overpriced and using the center section of the ring behind your speaker is a bad idea as it can hold moisture. You can do the same thing with cheap weather stripping or window air conditioner foam found at HD or Lowes. I made my own that way for less than $5.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-3-5-ft-...rstrip/1096097

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Thanks for those two links Truthunter.

Does anyone know of a build log or a guide to getting a flat glossy finish onto mdf? I keep looking and coming up short each time I look for a guide.

I'm adding another amplifier: Hifonics Zeus Zxx-600.4 for 75w x 4 @4ohm. Just shy of 80W per channel that I need for the rear pair of co-axials and 2-way morel maximo 6 up front. Any ideas if this amplifier is worth it? I mean it is less than $90 and should be just as good as any other amplifier based on the Richard Clark experiment. I plan on using the brutus1616.4 to power midbass. Which will be the sundown neopro v3's in 8" and I might get them in 8ohm for more spl based on their sensitivity however I think I won't due to the fact that they are all ready kind of beasts in themselves. So I'll probably get the 4ohm version and place two in the front kicks and two under the rear seats, unless anyone thinks this is a bad idea? Again the Truck is going to be set up to eq really well for the driver however I'm keeping everything in mind so that I can have it set up so everyone get's a great listening experience in the truck. I do plan on starting with just 4 midbass speakers, two in the kicks and two on a panel that goes over the rear oem compartment under the seats. And I can't find how much airspace these midbass speakers need.

A note on the Richard Clark experiment is that I buy into the fact that two amplifiers will sound different... so I am taking amplifier suggestions.

However, does anyone have any suggestions for a better cheapish amplifier? I wanted one that if something breaks inside the amplifier, which I've never had happen to me although it might I'd be able to work on it myself if it's not under warranty at the time.

I was thinking a 6 channel amplifier would be great for this purchase if I ever manage to go active I could run a 3way up front by fabbing some on axis fiberglass panels. And I'd probably stick a 2-way in the rear doing just about the same.

If I fail in making the box perfect I can always sand it down and carpet over it.
Also in the future I plan on adding two more sundown sd3 d2's and moving all of the amplifiers into a toolbox. Would adding two more subwoofers on top of my current one give me 6db gain for having two and then I guess 3db gain for the third giving me a total of 9db gain over having just the one?

All over I'm very happy with the build so far.

http://www.down4soundshop.com/neopro-v3-8-midrange/

Midrange Speakers won`t play bass/midbass

Some by nines , possibly, [subwoofer].

fs - 30 hZ
Xmax - 12mm or more

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Originally Posted by punkrocker

:mad:Diymobile led me to believe crimping was better.

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It is but it's not going to make enough difference to warrant doing it over.

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Does anyone have reccomendations for removing scratches from bare aluminium? I have a few scratches on my amplifiers.

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If it's brushed aluminum some scotch brite will take out light scratches. I would test it on an area that isn't seen first though before doing the entire amp.

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Originally Posted by punkrocker

A note on the Richard Clark experiment is that I buy into the fact that two amplifiers will sound different... so I am taking amplifier suggestions.

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If that's the case, you should look him up and see if he'll still conduct the test. You can use your winnings to help finance your build.

At the end of the day, product application is more important than the product itself. (inexpensive equipment applied correctly will sound better than expensive equipment applied incorrectly)

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Originally Posted by punkrocker

If I fail in making the box perfect I can always sand it down and carpet over it.
Also in the future I plan on adding two more sundown sd3 d2's and moving all of the amplifiers into a toolbox. Would adding two more subwoofers on top of my current one give me 6db gain for having two and then I guess 3db gain for the third giving me a total of 9db gain over having just the one?

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Simply adding 2 more subwoofers isn't going to give you a 9db increase.

Anyone think this would be useless in a short amount of time? It has everything except 6v output. However it comes close with 4v.
It also doesn’t have HD radio, and isn’t cea-2006 compliant. Everything else about it seems like.... a moscani amplifier I suppose.
Power Acoustik cp-650
And I’m unsure if it’s 24bit... and I’m pretty sure it doesn’t have rear hdmi for watching dogs on trampolines. [emoji20]
The search for the budget head unit continues. Has anyone ever had a sony headunit? What is there reputation for double dins?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

mvh-s600bs. 6 outputs, ta, fully active 3-way. mechless, 2 din, bluetooth, usb, aux. less than $110

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Originally Posted by cadaver

mvh-s600bs. 6 outputs, ta, fully active 3-way. mechless, 2 din, bluetooth, usb, aux. less than $110

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It doesn't look like a bad radio however I'd really like apple car play, nav and hd radio.

Kenwood DDX6904S?

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Originally Posted by Euphonic

Kenwood DDX6904S?

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Well this is perfect! Awesome, thanks Euphonic.

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Originally Posted by punkrocker

Does anyone know of a build log or a guide to getting a flat glossy finish onto mdf? I keep looking and coming up short each time I look for a guide.

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Use a high build primer/sealer, then your finish paint on top. You have to seal the MDF before applying your paint or it will just absorb in to it.

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Originally Posted by bobditts

Use a high build primer/sealer, then your finish paint on top. You have to seal the MDF before applying your paint or it will just absorb in to it.

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I have a high build primer. Which I planned on spraying inside and outside the box, do I silicone seal before or after. After applying the primer do I need to use fiberglass mat (do I use chopped strand mat?), and then I assume I use body filler, and paint over after sanding everything down smooth. Does the fiberglass sand flat or should I be sure to lay enough body filler over?

Can't wait to post some photos of the finished amp and subwoofer project!

for flat mdf, you won't need fg or body filler.

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Originally Posted by SublimeZ

for flat mdf, you won't need fg or body filler.

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I would do something with the end grain though. It took me about 6 coats on end grain to match 2 coats on the field.

Evercoat Slick Sand, one & done

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Originally Posted by beak81champ

I would do something with the end grain though. It took me about 6 coats on end grain to match 2 coats on the field.

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I was planning on using a little body filler for this part of the box. Really I only need to do it on one side however I guess the side that will be up against trim will only give me a little practice for the show side.

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Originally Posted by punkrocker

I was planning on using a little body filler for this part of the box. Really I only need to do it on one side however I guess the side that will be up against trim will only give me a little practice for the show side.

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These have like 6 coats on the cut ends, and 3 or 4 on the field:
Attachment 6431Attachment 6432

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Originally Posted by punkrocker

Can't wait to post some photos of the finished amp and subwoofer project!

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More pics ?