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astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
So here we go, a rookie build log.
I've done some deadening already, with more to come. Equipment selection was guided by deals on what I thought would function well. As you will see, that will give me some challenges in the amplifier installation I could have avoided with more patience and resources. This will be a function over form install. My goal is for it to at least be clean.
I look forward to questions and recommendations, because I know I have not asked enough.
The car, 2006 MINI Cooper S Checkmate Edition (Astro Black color)
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3431/3...dbdcec2d_o.jpg
The gear
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7459/9...5b1895ed_z.jpg
The environment
http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6201/6...68515a2a_z.jpg
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
Good luck chex, looks like you have got a good start with your equipment! Just don't skimp on the deadening/ sealing of doors......trust me this is something you'll want to get right the first time, not something you'll want to revisit, I promise!
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
Nice car! We had a Pioneer company demo-car like that.. No S haha.. just a 1.6
I can recommend placing the tweeters up higher than the stock locations if you want a high and wide stage ;)
When is the build gonna start? :D
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
Quote:
Originally Posted by
claydo
Good luck chex, looks like you have got a good start with your equipment! Just don't skimp on the deadening/ sealing of doors......trust me this is something you'll want to get right the first time, not something you'll want to revisit, I promise!
I've had the door panels off a number of times already so that is actually a part I am very comfortable dealing with. I've deadened the door panel, but I still want to add closed cell foam to the door panels to reduce rattling and provide some noise blocking.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
WOOSEY
Nice car! We had a Pioneer company demo-car like that.. No S haha.. just a 1.6
I can recommend placing the tweeters up higher than the stock locations if you want a high and wide stage ;)
When is the build gonna start? :D
I am sticking with OEM locations for now. I have minimal tools and this is my DD so I need to minimize downtime. A plus one would be a-pillar locations. Interestingly, the Genesis MINI demo car had switch that would change the tweeter output from OEM door to kick panels locations.
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
Nice looking ride. Glenn used to have one so he might could toss in a few pointers.
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
Sweet car and sweet equipment. I wanna see how this pans out.
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
Remember with that 9877 that it comes lit up stock to do L=R for crossover, etc.. you want L/R and it opens up a gamut of possibilities.
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
An update from 2 years ago, lol.
I have finally started deadening my MCS which is particularly vibration prone due to an aftermarket motormount and worn out shocks. I got a deal on 11 sheets of damplifier Pro, which happened to be the black. That motormount turned out to be a POS that was since replaced with a sweet unit.
I've only completed the hatch and the front wheel wells, but already I have felt a difference. I've used one and a half sheets so far. DP is really easy to work with. Initially, I used a utility knife to cut the material, but I switched to kitchen shears to speed up the process. The shears worked great, it is a snap to create complex shapes to fit complex spaces. I am glad to have so much more material to work with. I see how this can become an obsession.
I am thrilled with the results. It feels like a different car. My rearview mirror does not vibrate any more nor does the extensive plastic in the interior. I am going to tell my MINI peeps about DP since many do suffer the same rattle maladies that I used to. This effort has taken less than 3 sheets.
Doors and rear wheel wells are next.
The hatch with panel removed.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5190/...13956e96_z.jpg
Hatch after cleaning with mineral spirits. The cream colored areas had some kind of fiber board that peeled off easily.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5186/...9e19bae7_z.jpg
Left side hatch DP (single layer). Not the prettiest or most thorough, but enough to get the job done. I used DP scraps on the hatch panel. I figured it was not a bad idea.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5267/...206e2f07_z.jpg
Right side hatch DP (single layer).
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5230/...a8ce1cf7_z.jpg
Left side front wheel well before cleaning. The solid aftermarket motormount is the black triangular thing (right of the spring) that you can only see a part of.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5068/...7d6d6239_z.jpg
Left side front wheel well with 2 layers DP. I put it in four locations. The first one is near the motormount, in the pic its covered with heat reflective tape. The half-moon shaped region was workable because it was smooth. More tape on selected edges for insurance. The other two locations are on the left, the flat-black regions. The DP was easy to cut with kitchen shears. It took more time to make the paper templates. That structure ties into the upper shock mount, if I was faster I would have added more DP.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5307/...f167e467_z.jpg
Right side front wheel well with 2 layers DP in the mirrored locations as the right side. The templates I made for the right worked also for the left side.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5146/...96f80376_z.jpg
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
Another update from the past.
Got my next deadening fix by doing the rear wheelwells. Was more effort than the fronts with more area and difficult access angles. I did notice a further improvement in dampening, the car being a little smoother than before.
Passenger side after cleaning:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5185/...1238e6df_z.jpg
Looking aft/up
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5148/...5906cb7d_z.jpg
Looking forward/up
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5310/...33d93abd_z.jpg
Passenger side with single layer of DP:
Looking forward
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5142/...440af78d_z.jpg
Looking aft/up
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5148/...af1d300a_z.jpg
I put three layers of DP above the shock because thats what it took to pass the knock test. The third layer is more like a patch.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5262/...f8404b2b_z.jpg
Drivers side with single layer of DP:
Looking forward/up. The gas filler tube is the black thingy.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5146/...434ee59e_z.jpg
Looking aft/up
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5026/...e9f8fc50_z.jpg
Same layup as the passenger side, I put three layers of DP to pass the knock test.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5302/...5daffa05_z.jpg
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
And another past update.
Alright, I completed the doors. In total, I used 9 sheets of the DP on the car. I have two left but I am letting my dad use them on his Focus. I've got a bunch of scrap that I will use on the door panels and interior plastic.
Passenger side door.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5145/...9395ddaf_z.jpg
Drivers side door with the panel removed and cleaned. I left the factory dampener on.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5305/...b74f378c_z.jpg
Drivers side with a single layer of DP. I learned that, although DP fits behind the crash bar, its really difficult to install a sheet behind it. On the passenger side I went with top and bottom sheets, a much easier process.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5228/...51438602_z.jpg
Passengers side with a single layer of DP. I tried to cover as much area as possible. I guesstimate I covered at least 80% of the possible outer door skins.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5109/...6110f681_z.jpg
Forward on the passenger door.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5261/...893cd30f_z.jpg
Aft on the passenger door.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5148/...83573828_z.jpg
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
Now that's some serious dampening. Nice work!
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
It needs much dampening love. It's a very stiff car with bad shocks.
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
if you were looking for a loose, floaty car you bought the wrong thing.
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
I bought it brand spanking new, following production and delivery. I knew what I was getting. Car audio improvement was not a phrase in my vocabulary. The bad shocks are the main culprit now. In time they will get replaced.
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
how many miles did those things last? (shocks)
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
I'm at 126K now. They easily could have died at half that. Its a graceful degredation, one of a number of not-uncommon MINI issues.
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
Not much of an update, but an indication of what I will be doing next.
The trunk where the amps will be mounted gets hot, really hot. I'll post a trunk pic tonight. I have measured temps of 150 F on the surface of the amp mounting area. While carpet provides some attenuation, I still see local areas of 120-130F.
I have worked with heat blocking material in the engine compartment on the header shroud. I will use this on the shrouds at least above the mufflers and wherever else I think I need it.
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
So I want to make sure my fuses are properly sized.
Based on the bcae1 system power design assistant, my plan is to use 125amp for the power wire. Then on the distribution block, 60, 30 and 10amp respectively.
The amps all have their own protection, the Helix (75amp), the PPI (30amp) and the Mac (20amp).
Will this plan work or can I make better choices?
TIA
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
If the fuses are matched to the size of wire you are going to use , you're all set.
copper wire
4 gauge = 60 amp
8 gauge = 30 amp
12 gauge = 10 amp
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
Not progress, but another dumb question.
The Helix manual says the amp is rated at 4 Ohms bridged: 1 x 360/600 W. Since the subs I am running are 8ohm, would I half the ratings for the 8ohm load?
The pic shows the 4ga wire I was planning to use for my Helix amp. It looks like a very tight fit. Helix says that 16mm is the minimum cross section for power/ground wires. I am going to ask them what that means in layman's terminology.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3753/1...045c30b3_z.jpg
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
Yes , as your resistance increases your flow rate decreases.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/aw...uge-d_731.html ~ Look at this chart
Feel free to pare down or shave some of the copper wire down to fit the opening.
cross sectional area in millimeters appears to be around a 5 awg, so just put an edge on a knife and whittle the 4 awg down.
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
If you have to you can cut some of that wire out if it DOES NOT fit.
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
I usually just hit it with strippers to the size it need and then peel the excess wire strands out
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
I never would have thought that would be a kosher thing to do. It saves me from having to get new power wire.
Thank-you all. :beer:
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
Quote:
Originally Posted by
astrochex
Not progress, but another dumb question.
The Helix manual says the amp is rated at 4 Ohms bridged: 1 x 360/600 W. Since the subs I am running are 8ohm, would I half the ratings for the 8ohm load?
How many subs ? and how will they be connected ?
If you go from the 'red' or 'positive' post to the positive or red connector on 2 subs.
Then go from the 'black' or minus to the black or negative connector on each of the 2 subs
your amplifier will see a total load of 4 ohms.
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1 Attachment(s)
Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
There are two 6x9 subs. As you say and as I just confirmed from 3yr old emails, the amp will see a 4ohm load. The connection diagram I was given is shown.
Attachment 1763
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
If those 2 6X9's are 8 ohms each, the load at the amp will be 4 ohms
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
I finally got a response from Audiotec-Fischer regarding the Helix minimum wire size issue. They said 16mm2 is roughly 6ga. So trimming is still the plan.
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
A pseudo update.
As I mentioned in post 19 of this build, the R53 boot is subject to high temperatures. This past weekend, I installed the DEI material on most of the exhaust shroud material under the boot. After driving, I have recorded body surface temps in the 90-100+ range, a significant reduction from before. The temps on the top of the carpet in the boot area at about the same as other surfaces in the region. I'm pleased with the results. I have before and after pics, I just need to upload them.
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
Very nice! I like the precautions you are taking to ensure comfort as well as quiet.
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
Pictures to complement my pseudo-update.
I had to drop the exhaust so I could access all areas of the heat shield.
The material I used is DEI Floor and Tunnel Shield. It withstands up to 1750°F of direct continuous heat and the adhesive side holds past 450°F.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7294/1...1b6dc84f_z.jpg
Right side of the heat shield before material. The battery box is in the center. It already has similar material applied.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2894/1...0c51ffe3_z.jpg
Forward of the battery box before material.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7415/1...14f49f23_z.jpg
Aft of the battery box before material.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2863/1...d3a8264b_z.jpg
Right side of the heat shield after material. Small pieces is the theme to adhere to the contours. It took a while to complete.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5530/1...9bee1243_z.jpg
Forward of the battery box after material, looking from the right side.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7394/1...7f8ca448_z.jpg
Aft of the battery box after material. I only covered the area beneath the trunk area. Further back is bumper and I did not think adding material would help. I may still add material since there is still shield that can heat up.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3796/1...6176fb75_z.jpg
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
High tech alert, behold, my RTA rig! The mic position is roughy me in the passenger seat. The headrest is in backwards to clear the microphone.
software - RTA from Studio Six Digital
hardware - iphone5
mic - Dayton Audio iMM-6 Calibrated Measurement Microphone
mic stand - wood scraps + weatherstrip foam + headrest attachment points
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7372/1...8b265a5d_c.jpg
Typical road noise measurement.
I have no idea how this compares to other cars, but I am guessing its high. Note that the tires are worn and that the rear seats are down which adds cabin noise. I wanted to measure a baseline to get an idea how effective the remaining deadening will be.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3710/1...20538263_c.jpg
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
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Re: astrochex first ever build - MINI Cooper S
Cool rig! :)
I hope you're not planning on using it for real RTA though.