2016 Mazda CX5. Scanspeak, Satori, Helix, JL Audio, Sony, Zapco

Hello everyone, just finished up an install for a 2016 Mazda CX5 that was fresh off the lot. The goals for this car was first and foremost to have a high level of sound quality while still maintaining a good amount of output, retain the factory radio, and to retain trunk space. With that in mind and looking at the car and the set budget, we decided on..

. Helix DSP
. (2) Zapco ST-4X SQ. One for tweeters and rear fill, and one bridged to the mids
. Zapco ST-1350XM II for subs
. Scanspeak R2004 tweeters
. Satori MW19P-4 7.5" mid-woofer
. Sony XS-GS1621 Coaxials for rear fill
. (2) JL 12TW3-D4

Just a side note.. this pictures are out of chronological order, but are organized in a way to show the steps of each area of the car. That said, i let my girlfriend take my camera with her to Europe so the last couple days i didnt have a good camera and im low on photos since i was discouraged from cell phone pics. My buddy came over to shoot a few but i havent received them yet, and the customer will be getting some more for me at a later time.


http://i.imgur.com/OhiWrfX.jpg






First thing i did with this car was just get right to deadening. Liberal amounts were used as you can see. This car had a somewhat thick, removable plastic access panel which made deadening the outer door skin a breeze (aside from that horrible window regulator that you see in the below photo that mazda uses. if you ever plan on removing these access panels, be very careful when removing the window regulator thats "clicked and turned" into the access panel. If that falls apart on you, i assure you that you will have a bad time. Dont ask how i know)

http://i.imgur.com/6ubk9Y2.jpg






Said access panel. front and rear got plenty of CLD coverage. All 4 got the same treatment. The door panel also got plenty of coverage to combat resonance from the larger than normal mids.

http://i.imgur.com/Yt0ia6C.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/5iiCOYK.jpg






Not the prettiest since i dont have a capable router setup on hand for this, so jig saw it was. But two layers of 3/4" HDPE decoupled from the door with CCF and sealed to each other with CLD and butyl rope. Factory mounts were retained.

http://i.imgur.com/IxF82xm.jpg






Heres the passenger side front door once it was completed. 2 layers of 1/2" Dynaliner was used to seal the woofer to the door panel. Some people like to use the open cell foam based pre-made ones. I cant help but think theyre not very useful considering theyre open cell foam and the point of this step is to completely seal the driver to the panel. On top of that, im not a fan of the idea of putting open cell foam in a door where it can get wet and hold moisture. All speakers in this car got XT60 quick connectors for quick and easy service while maintaining reliability. The tweeters also got a 100v, 50uF cap in line to protect in case of any equipment failure or user mishaps.

http://i.imgur.com/1aH9EPy.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/SQLb7Cn.jpg

Wiring of the mids.. got a little carried away with the photos. Deal with it lol.

http://i.imgur.com/LwYgtxw.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/9EsoBEx.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/tWHd26o.jpg






Power wire and main fuse holder. 1/0 gauge from the front goes to a fused T-Spec distribution block in the back next to the enclosure.

http://i.imgur.com/QE02LEe.jpg






The car came with a 6 speaker option and "twiddlers" were in the dash. The customer wasnt interested in that and wanted something custom that looked somewhat OEM. We settled on sail panels because i wasnt positive on how well i could match the factory fabric that was on the pillars. The sail panels presented their own challenge though.. They were relatively thin. They needed to be built out but i think i was able to make them look pretty good.

http://i.imgur.com/cmDNOmK.jpg






Cut out..

http://i.imgur.com/rf2lKCd.jpg






Rings test fitted in the car to see if the tweeter will have clearance

http://i.imgur.com/duN3LXf.jpg

Taped up and mold glassed to the sail panel..

http://i.imgur.com/Tp9fgh3.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/EVQSd3F.jpg






Molds pulled, trimmed, and fabric secured.

http://i.imgur.com/oJf7prJ.jpg






Heres where photos take a hit.. no photos of glassing the sail or laying up body filler. But here they are sanded and almost ready for primer.

http://i.imgur.com/BaaHfMO.jpg






Texture coated to match the factory look. Still waiting for photos from my friend of them installed in the car

http://i.imgur.com/pVgfOsG.jpg






Goodies for the trunk.

http://i.imgur.com/ZeZQasq.jpg






Spare tire ditched, triple a purchased, trunk floor deadened, and tire well glassed.

http://i.imgur.com/gEbCM2z.jpg






Baffle made and attached, and holes cut. If you look closely there are strips of CCF around the perimeter of the mold, as well as a few on the floor so its completely decoupled from the floor. All of the wood used in this car was 1/2" and 3/4" birch.

http://i.imgur.com/suWZloc.jpg

Once the main beauty panel was made, i made filler panels for the side. They all unfortunately couldn't be one piece. This was before duraglass was used to make them sit perfectly flush against the panels. a strip of 1/8" CCF is around the outside perimeter of the main beauty panel so it sit snug against the panels, and the filler panels have some pressure to hold them in place.

http://i.imgur.com/YQqnQMa.jpg






Quick shot of the LED wiring before hot glue was used to insulate the connections. Unfortunately edge lit plexi was not an option as i threw these in as a last minute "yeah why not".

http://i.imgur.com/9dpsft2.jpg






Enclosure (as well as the amp rack) wrapped in black suede.

http://i.imgur.com/ASjHqOK.jpg






One last test fit before wrapping.

http://i.imgur.com/fWPX81a.jpg






Everything wrapped in a matching vinyl. Looks different against the side panels due to lighting, but you can see the match against the trim at the bottom corners of the picture. All power/ground/speaker/remote wires had the ends tinned with solder to prevent fraying, white techflex for looks, and color appropriate head shrink.

http://i.imgur.com/MhGBn4v.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/H1UUs59.jpg






One last set of panels were made to cover up the entire setup. There is a cutout with expanded metal grill under the carpet that is flushed into the 3/4" birch for the subs to have room to play at full volume while still having the strength to hold up whatever may go in the trunk.

http://i.imgur.com/zXjH9sA.jpg






That wraps up this build log as of now. Still waiting for photos of the LED's when its dark, and the sail panels installed. Thank you for looking!

Looks great! Another set of sails to make me drool.

You will make sails for my car this summer :hypno:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Truthunter

Looks great! Another set of sails to make me drool.

You will make sails for my car this summer :hypno:

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Thanks!. didnt realize you were in orange county. should have came by when the car was here

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SkizeR

Heres the passenger side front door once it was completed. 2 layers of 1/2" Dynaliner was used to seal the woofer to the door panel. Some people like to use the open cell foam based pre-made ones. I cant help but think theyre not very useful considering theyre open cell foam and the point of this step is to completely seal the driver to the panel. On top of that, im not a fan of the idea of putting open cell foam in a door where it can get wet and hold moisture. All speakers in this car got XT60 quick connectors for quick and easy service while maintaining reliability. The tweeters also got a 100v, 50uF cap in line to protect in case of any equipment failure or user mishaps.

http://i.imgur.com/1aH9EPy.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/SQLb7Cn.jpg

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I'm not too familiar with electrical connectors but, are those the same XT60 connectors that are used in the radio control world?

Wow, outstanding job!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by momotaro

I'm not too familiar with electrical connectors but, are those the same XT60 connectors that are used in the radio control world?

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I believe so. They're a less expensive option compared to Deans connectors.
I've used Deans, Traxxas and Anderson Power Poles for speaker connections over the years.
If they can handle the high current demands of RC car motors, they should be fine for speakers. lol

Jay

Ah that regulator. I've been there too. What a nightmare!!!

Awesome build!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by momotaro

I'm not too familiar with electrical connectors but, are those the same XT60 connectors that are used in the radio control world?

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yes sir. great little connectors.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BigAl205

Wow, outstanding job!

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Thanks Al!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by thebookfreak58

Ah that regulator. I've been there too. What a nightmare!!!

Awesome build!

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Thank you, and yes.. fuck that design. fuck that design so god damn hard

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SkizeR

Thank you, and yes.. fuck that design. fuck that design so god damn hard

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I had the regulator pop wide open and unwind completely. Four of us engineers at work couldn't figure out how to wind it back. Ended up buying one from the wreckers.

According to the Mazda service manual, they say to take out the glass out first with the regulator attached.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by thebookfreak58

I had the regulator pop wide open and unwind completely. Four of us engineers at work couldn't figure out how to wind it back. Ended up buying one from the wreckers.

According to the Mazda service manual, they say to take out the glass out first with the regulator attached.

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On my Genesis Coupe, it had a similar setup, where the regulator was attached to a big metal panel that came out of the door.

I pulled the rubber caps for access to the bolts that hold the window to the regulator. I marked the bolt locations with a sharpie.
I used some blue painter's tape to mark the where the window sits in relation to the inside window scraper, so that I would be able to reposition the window with little effort. then I removed the window, and then the whole "door module."

I liked this setup because it gives pretty unencumbered access to the inside of the door.

Here's a link to that part of my build thread on DIYMA (Sorry, Al, It's from 8 years ago, long before I was on here).

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...ild-log-4.html

Hopefully, the Mazda works the same way...I haven't had my doors off yet.

Jay

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JayinMI

On my Genesis Coupe, it had a similar setup, where the regulator was attached to a big metal panel that came out of the door.

I pulled the rubber caps for access to the bolts that hold the window to the regulator. I marked the bolt locations with a sharpie.
I used some blue painter's tape to mark the where the window sits in relation to the inside window scraper, so that I would be able to reposition the window with little effort. then I removed the window, and then the whole "door module."

I liked this setup because it gives pretty unencumbered access to the inside of the door.

Here's a link to that part of my build thread on DIYMA (Sorry, Al, It's from 8 years ago, long before I was on here).

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...ild-log-4.html

Hopefully, the Mazda works the same way...I haven't had my doors off yet.

Jay

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Looks exactly the same. So does that dreaded molex.

Lucky for me, the Mazda is being moved on, and gear going into a Corolla (build logs of both on DIYMA).

Anyway, enough of a thread highjack!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JayinMI

I believe so. They're a less expensive option compared to Deans connectors.
I've used Deans, Traxxas and Anderson Power Poles for speaker connections over the years.
If they can handle the high current demands of RC car motors, they should be fine for speakers. lol

Jay

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Wow, that's really cool! I do have to admit, Dean's connectors are quite pricey. Just got back into RC cars and all my battery connectors are Dean's.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SkizeR

yes sir. great little connectors.

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You guys sure are a resourceful bunch! :thumbup:

When I used them in my Genesis, I found a place that had them really cheap. But I was never able to find them again.
You can find most of them pretty cheap online, but with the ones I listed, I like that if I need any more I can snatch them up at the hobby shop.

Jay

I've used these before https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BigAl205

I've used these before https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Holy smokes! I pay that much for one pair of Dean's plugs. LOL

I found out recently that the WS Deans company is a few blocks from my work. I may swing by there just to check it out.

http://www.wsdeans.com/index.html

Sorry for the threadjack.

Beautiful work Nick.