That's an interesting driver and just went on my short list!Quote:
Originally Posted by chithead
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That's an interesting driver and just went on my short list!Quote:
Originally Posted by chithead
I second the idea of 8s. The tymphany tweeters that PE had for 15$ were very nice and smooth and played low. Just a thought.
I have a pair of JL 8IB4's. PM me if interested, check classifieds
Oh, there WILL be 8's, and I'm a horn guy through and through, so there WILL be horns too. The only real question is, will I have a 3-way with a more subwoofer like 8, or a 2-way with an 8 that can be a mid and a sub at the same time. I'd like to go the 2-way route if I can get good results that way.Quote:
Originally Posted by cadaver
Those look interesting. Will they play well up to, 1500-ish?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hic
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I talked to Eric today, and it looks like the CD2 Mini body is the way to go, so I'll be buying a set of those with his current drivers.
A bunch of stuff arrived today, so I got to work, but not before grabbing this picture and over editing it :p :
http://i.imgur.com/7Mayr8th.jpg
I'm not sure if the Miata makes the Bronco look big, or if the Bronco makes the Miata look small. :D
The 800PRS mounted in the dash kit:
http://i.imgur.com/aLtlyPrh.jpg
Below it is a Voltage Gauge, USB charging ports and a 12V power outlet. The 12V power outlet will get constant power so that when I park for long periods of time I can throw one of my solar panels on the dash to maintain the battery.
http://i.imgur.com/g5u5uSKh.jpg
I made up the little textured ABS piece and used CA glue to mount it to the dash kit. I haven't used CA glue before, damn that stuff is impressive!
After getting the physical fit down, I fired up the soldering iron:
http://i.imgur.com/SaocEhVh.jpg
Here we have the 800PRS, APL1, Steering wheel control interface, HDMI audio de-embedder and Lightning to HDMI dongle. I also have an extra 12V power outlet that has a Scosche dual USB plug in it, both ports are high current. One port to charge my phone, the other is to power the HDMI audio de-embedder.
And last, I reclaimed some old RCA connectors off of some older custom cables and made some new ones for this project. One is the digital for into the APL1, and the other two are for analog out the the APL1 and into the 800PRS.
http://i.imgur.com/pX7E2egh.jpg
Tomorrow my new steering wheel and brake switch should arrive. It should be a big day for the new ride. :)
Scott Buwalda used a pair of these in his front doors once. Not sure of top end on these for midbass
How high they play is very critical for my situation. I know the current ZR800's can't cut it in a 2-way setup.
Shouldn't be too hard to look em up, Scott liked winning.
I quickly found the owners manual, but it doesn't say anything about the frequency response.
I would ask Eric what he has found that plays the frequencies not covered by his mini-horns , possibly a pro mid or a full range 8 inch crossed @ 1500 hZ .
The Eton 8-412/c8/32 Hex Symphony II woofer fills the bill in a 1.4 cu ft enclosure W/some acousti-fil , I used WinISD to model it *
Top end says 2000 hz on it !
I spent a lot of time looking up old posts from Eric and others in the HLCD forum on DIYMA and every single one assumes that subs will be used, so people are looking to high pass around 70-80 on their midbass drivers. After opening up a door today I found that isolating a 2.5" mid from the midbass will be trivial, so I think a 3-way might be the way to go. How would your JL drivers do on 75 watts each?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hic
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UPDATE:
Lets start with a look at the factory steering wheel and radio:
http://i.imgur.com/V1MkHMJh.jpg
The first thing I did was install the cruise control components. On the left is the non-cruise brake switch, and on the right is the cruise switch. If you don't mind laying with your back over the door sill, you can swap these parts without tools. All 2009-2015 cars have the same plugs and wiring, so the new switch plugs right in.
http://i.imgur.com/TQfx78Bh.jpg
Next up is the steering wheel. I started by removing the stock wheel:
http://i.imgur.com/bTmXDYth.jpg
That is pretty straight forward. Next I needed to connect the horn to the new wheel, the plugs are different. I dipped into my weatherpack kit and used a single pin connector:
http://i.imgur.com/UAEIKEFh.jpg
Next is to torque down the new wheel and plug in the wiring. The plug you need is already installed and has all the proper wiring.
http://i.imgur.com/qoVtpUJh.jpg
Install the airbag/horn assembly and you are set. A quick test drive proved that the cruise and radio controls work! It took less than an hour, including test drive.
Next up is the radio. I spent an absurd amount of time trying to figure out where to stuff the APL1, I'm not used to having so little extra space. I wound up stuffing it under the carpet on the passenger side of the transmission tunnel. I hope it doesn't get too hot! In this pic you can just barely see the RCA connectors facing up, and the HDMI audio de-embedder on top of the transmission tunnel:
http://i.imgur.com/ysJgFlCh.jpg
I was able to stuff the bulk of the new wiring harness in a hole between the center stack and glove box then pop the head unit in place.
http://i.imgur.com/D4rXCa1h.jpg
Before buttoning everything up I tested it. The steering wheel controls worked right away, the gauges and power ports all work right. But the left door wasn't making any sound, grrr. I spent way too long poking around trying to find the problem only to eventually find that it was a pin on the Metra harness that was in the wrong hole. I fixed that and was good to go!
With that fixed I buttoned it up, tested everything again only to find that I had forgotten to plug the HVAC controls back in. I was chasing the sun at this point but took it apart again and putting it back together and I was good to go! Here is a crappy shot of it all lit up:
http://i.imgur.com/kFRhKK2h.jpg
I'll get a better shot tomorrow. And yes, I put the shift knob back on.
I was lucky that the voltage gauge matched the dash lighting perfectly, now I just need to figure out how to change the head unit color to match. Anyone know how to do this?
Without any tuning at all, just a 6db high pass at 50hz, it already sounds MUCH better than the factory radio, especially when turning it up. My only problem is that the APL1 is clipping the inputs on the 800PRS on some songs. I'll spend some time with REW and APL Workshop tomorrow to see what kind of tune I can get out of the stock speaker setup.
Somehow while climbing around in the car I managed to shatter my phone screen while it was in my pocket. I ordered a new screen from ifixit.com and should have it all fixed up on Tuesday. I'm glad it didn't happen while I was on the road! Unfortunately, that just took up a bunch of money I could have used on the new horns. :mad:
I'm only home for one more week before the golf season picks back up, and it starts with a complex show that I need to spend a few days next week prepping. I won't have more than a couple days off until March, I guess that gives me plenty of time to figure out what I'll do with the doors :p