6-channel vs two 4-channel (bridged) amps for 3-way active front stage?

I'm rewiring my power and RCAs and figured it's a good time to ask your thoughts just in case I should setup some extra channels to change up my amplifiers, possibly moving from my current 6-channel to two 4-channel amps where I would bridge the 2-channels for the woofers if I were to update those down the line.

Current front stage:
* Tweeters (1 ⅜" on dash): Hertz Mille Legend 280.3 (90W RMS, 180 Peak)
* Mids (3" on dash): Hertz Mille Legend 700.3 (50W RMS, 100 Peak)
* Woofers (6.5" in doors): Hertz Mille Legend 1650.3 (125W RMS, 250 Peak)
* Pioneer AVIC 8200 head unit
* miniDSP C-DSP 8x12 w/Dirac Live

Possible changes:
* Upgrade the woofer to Hertz ML 1800.3 (200W RMS, 400 Peak)
*Swap everything over to Morel Elate Carbon Pro 63A
* Tweeters: 220W RMS (1000 Peak)
* Mids: 120 RMS (400 Peak)
* Woofer: 180W RMS (1000 Peak)

Need help deciding on a few things:

1) moving from my current 6-channel AudioControl LC 6.1200 amp to two 4-channel amps

2) Any recommendations on the 4-channel amps, either use the two Alpine PDX-F6 amps I have available (150W x 4 @ 4 Ω, 300W x 2 @ 4 Ω bridged) or swap to one of the ones below?
* AudioControl LC-4.800 (125W x 4 @ 4 Ω, 400W x 2 @ 4 Ω bridged)
* Rockford Fosgate Power T1000-4AD (50W x 4 @ 1-4 Ω, 500W x 2 @ 2 Ω bridged)
* Audiofrog A150.4D (100W x 4 @ 4 Ω, 300W x 2 @ 4 Ω bridged
* Hertz Mille ML Power 4 (120W x 4 @ 4 Ω,.500W x 2 @ 4 Ω bridged)
* JL Audio HD Series HD600/4 (150W x 4 @ 1.5-4 Ω, 300W x 2 @ 3-8 Ω bridged)
* Focal FPX 4.800 (120W x 4 @ 4 Ω, 370W x 2 @ 4 Ω bridged)
* Focal FDP 4.600V2 (150W x 4 @ 4, 400W x 2 @ 4 Ω bridged)
* Focal FDP Sport V2 (150W x 4 @ 4 Ω, 400W x 2 @ 4 Ω bridged)

3) Any other options besides two 4-channel amps?
(eg, using one 4-channel amp and one 2-chanel. Note that the Morel Elate Tweeters would need a lot of power (220 RMS), so I could use a powerful 4-channel (200+ RMS x 4) for the Tweeters and Woofers and a 2-channel for the mids)


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Do you need more volume? When you turn up the volume, do dynamic passages get worse? Do you hear distortion as you turn it up and is this the amp giving out or the speaker (this may be a tough question to answer)?

Those would be the questions to answer and if you answer yes to any of them, then more power would be worth it. Otherwise it is just a waste.

I know on my wife's car, the amp gives out as it is about 75w to the door woofers playing 80hz to 2500hz. The right side especially since it needs more naturally being farther away. My truck with the pdx-f6 on the woofers, they never stress and it is actually the mids that give out first, and it is the mids not the amp (other two f6 channels on these). So I would have to change the speakers to get any louder here...or not boost a couple areas as much....

More than the volume:distortion ratio, I'm hoping I wouldn't underpower the upgraded Morel speakers when I get them.
Eg, for a tweeter or woofer that has >200W RMS, moving from the 125W RMS in the AudioControl I currently have to >200W if I bridge channels in a 4-channel amp.

I'd have to turn the gains up in the AudioControl, which would just add more distortion/noise.

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Underpowering is a myth. There is no such thing.

If this was true, we would have to listen to our stereos at max HU volume 100% of the time, otherwise we would be underpowering them

Speaker ratings are also very confusing items on how they are rated.

Example, a tweeter rated at 200w rms is actually only able to ever take maybe 5w-10w rms before they melt their voice coil. But with how they are rated they are "200w rms" tweeters.

this article gets into a little of the explanation

https://www.audiofrog.com/pink-noise...get-150-watts/

This is also a good read

https://www.caraudiojunkies.com/show...e-in-car-audio

If you really want to bake your noodle....look up Nick Adams' GTi build on the site and see what he's running and how he's powering everything. Changed the game for me on how to look at things in a much more streamlined manner along with reading the material these fine gentlemen have suggested you delve into.

Hello 'Capital_Program_1665'
What don't you like about your current setup? You have very high end speakers (maybe the highest end stuff that Hertz makes) You have 6x125w now which no matter what the internet says is a shit load of power going to them. All those amps you listed are at best a lateral move from where you are now. If you were to switch to your Alpines (which are really nice amps) you might see a 3db increase in midbass output which you will then have to tune out in some way.
What I'm trying to say is I wouldn't change them.

you said >>>Eg, for a tweeter or woofer that has >200W RMS, moving from the 125W RMS in the AudioControl I currently have to >200W if I bridge channels in a 4-channel amp.

I'd have to turn the gains up in the AudioControl, which would just add more distortion/noise.<<<

Why would you have to turn the gains up? Your gain isn't a volume knob or a power output knob. It just matches the output to your source input voltage.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BenevolentDictator

If you really want to bake your noodle....look up Nick Adams' GTi build on the site and see what he's running and how he's powering everything. Changed the game for me on how to look at things in a much more streamlined manner along with reading the material these fine gentlemen have suggested you delve into.

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Thanks! Any chance you have the link to Nick's build?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Robkh19i4

Thanks! Any chance you have the link to Nick's build?

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Here you go
my 2012 mk6 gti build (caraudiojunkies.com)